Shanghai Beer Scenery - July 12-14

I've been to Shanghai for several times, and I don't expect there is actually a "beer scene" developing so vividly in the city.

Friday: Shanghai Brewery

I did some research before the trip and knew that there are quite a number of microbreweries.  Yes, there are brewmasters doing their work right there at the beer house, or in breweries somewhere else then transporting the products to the bars and selling them to customers (mostly served in 0.3L, 0.5L, 1L glasses - they are more following the German scale: I didn't see any "pint" in SH).  Therefore after touching down and having a wonderful dinner with mates, we headed to one of those microbreweries - Shanghai Brewery at Hangshan Lu (衡山路, 東平路).

The brewery was packed with drinkers already when we arrived and we just sat outside under the sky and trees (梧桐樹, so famous in the "French quarter").  Six kinds of fresh handcrafted, micro-brewed beers are regularly brewed on-site: West River (浦西) Weizen (wheat beer), People's Pilsner, North Star IPA, Black Eyed Bear Stout, Hong Mei Amber Hefeweizen and Peach Weizen.  It says that all of the beer recipes were created and brewed by award-winning American Brewmaster Geoff Engel and Chinese Brewmaster Sam Yang.

I ordered a sampler (including four kinds) while my friends chose West River Weizen and North Star IPA respectively.  Brief comments are:

People's Pilsner: acceptable, will be better if more chilled
West River Weizen: unacceptably pale (this may be an interesting question regarding taste of Chinese drinkers, and should be explored further by someone), and thus quite character-less.
Hong Mei Amber Hefeweizen:  same as above
Black Eyed Stout: acceptable, but not malty and biscuity enough
North Star IPA: fairly fine, compared to the above, less bitterness as compared to other IPA tasted.

Regarding of the beer, the atmosphere of the place is really great.  Everyone around you are drinking, laughing and enjoying themselves.  The nachos ordered by the Germans on the table beside ours is so big and appealing.  It seems that everybody is having a good time.  Of course, it is a bit pity that the beer is not that good, but nobody except us really cared.  We headed for somewhere else, leaving behind some unfinished glasses ...

Bar Constellation

We just walked on the street after leaving the brewery, and looked for our next destination.  My last good experience dictated our way to Bar Constellation, this time another one in a new location.

You could easily find out many reviews aboutr this bar on the internet when you typed in Bar Constellation Shanghai, the descriptions you mostly likely read will be "best cocktails", "500 single malt whiskies", etc.  I have not tried most of the cocktails, but at its presentation, you would believe the descriptions are true.  They are serious about making cocktails as the menu presented quite a profile: vodka based, gin based, etc, etc.  You simply don't know how to choose, too many names you do not know and too many varieties you hesitate to order at one time.

Luckily, my friend made a very good and decent suggestion - a kind of rum that beats all your previous experiences on the stuff, and I ordered a neat glass of Zacapa XO.  It is very delicious, very easy to drink while offering a very refined aftertaste. Just excellence.  Thank you, mate!  I missed the opportunity of trying this when I visited the Bar Constellation at Ningbo.  But I did not miss it this time.

The day ended with a perfect aftertaste.

Saturday: West Well (西井滙), Zhujiajiao (朱家角)

I am not clever enough to associate numerous cafes, style shops, restaurants with a small heritage riverside town.  I should have thought about that for the rising consuming power of Shanghai.  Even that, I really don't expect to find out a cafe selling some rarely-seen beers, such as Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout.

Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout

Source: North Coast Brewing Company, Fort Bragg, California, USA
Style: Russian Imperial Stout
Strength: 9% ABV
12 Fl. oz. bottle

Rating (out of 10): 8.5

Note: You could very easily pick up the "imperialness" / "royalness" of this stout in your first mouthful.  Difficult to describe its subtle difference with other stouts, until I read Mr Protz's notes in his book (300 beers to try before you die!): "an explosive finish packed with warming alcohol with a Cognac note ... ".  That's it, Cognac, that's the refined taste I experienced, thank you.

Visiting a 水鄉 is nice, but nothing could beat the unexpected chance in coming across something you really wanted to tried but failed in years.

Ole, a supermarket

Just stoped by a supermarket in a HK-styled mall, and saw some rarely-seen beers.  Chinese do prefer German beers, but luckily there were also some Belgium brews.  I bought the Lambic style beer - Lindemans FARO Lambic (250ml bottle, 4.5%ABV) (and another German beer).  Not bad, at least for my first time.

De Refter

After a nice local Shanghai meal, we headed to a bar specialised in Belgium beer - De Refter.  I was all too happy just taking a look at the drink list.  Those familiar ones, Chimay, Orval, Leffe are on the list, no doubt. And I found also numerous others.  In spite of some "strange" sub-headings, such as Fruity Poisons (for those Gueuze, Kriek and Lambic choices), the list is simply magnificent!  There is a sub-heading of Must Try.  So I opted for La Chouffe (8% ABV), my friends: Delirium Tremens (8.5% ABV) and Westmalle Tripel (9.5% ABV), all among the must try items.

They said that those liquid are beyond their past beer-drinking experience (don't forget they have tried numerous beers before), and were rightfully described as "special beer".  For me, La Chouffe is very good (rating: 9 out of 10); but the Delirium Tremens is simply "better" (rating: 9.5 out of 10).  Nothing is perfect, of course.

The bar set up a VIP list, for which anyone could join after they tried all 50 of its selected items.  If you do that, your name and the number of days required will be marked onto a plaque, together with a special VIP glass placed on the special VIP rack with your name shown clearly.  I would sign up for it if I could stay in Shanghai two more weeks.

A very enjoyable night!!

Sunday: The Bund Brewery

I planned to cut down my drinking during the third down of my trip, but failed eventually when coming across The Bund Brewery near the Bund (外灘).  There were only three kinds of homebrew, including amber wheat beer and dark wheat beer, served in 0.3L, 0.5L and 1L glasses (seems normal in the city).  I tried the amber wheat beer, it's fine, not very good.  But what impressed me is the availability of brewery in the city.


Taking away some empty bottles ...

Within a four-day trip, I visited two microbreweries, tried more than ten new beers, took away four empty beer bottles (for decorating my house) and two Beer Magazines (there is beer magazine introducing brewing recipes, homebrew competition, pub crawls, oh my God!).  See, people are trying new things and exploring when opportunities are given, rather than paying huge monthly rents selling LV bags, watches or formula powder.

I am not saying that there is anything special or worth promoting for beer.  It is just one kind of alcoholic drink, and I am sure not many people are enthusiastic to this drink as me.  But should there be more space and variety in a place, for those who are interested to experience and explore?  How special is this city really? Provided that the word "Special" is included in its formal name ...

Confusion, (and therefore) search for differentiation between Pale Ale and (Best) Bitter - Blind comparison of Marston's Pedigree and London Pride

"300 Beers to Try Before You Die" written by Roger Protz is placed on the top shelf of my room, and I always need to consult it about the beer style.  Pilsners, lager, stout or even wheat beer is very easy to tell.  But when it comes to the pale ale and bitter (or best bitter), confusing is definite.

I have tried Marston's Pedigree quite numerous times actually, both on taps or in bottles, and I must admit that I was usually not very impressed although the "glorious" history and background of pale ale being brewed in Burton-on-Trent, UK.  In its website, the pale ale is claimed to be the official beer of England (since it is a sponsor of the English Cricket Board), and it always praises the importance of the using of Burton spring water and the unique union cask system (fermentation of ale still takes place in oak casks!).

But comes down to actual drinking, I find Pedigree not as "sharp" or "tasty" as London Pride (which is classified as Best Bitter in Protz's book.  Difference of bitter and best bitter may be seen as between lager and premium lager, vaguely in terms of alcohol strength).  Today, I try to find out how those two beer styles differ actually.

I had an idea of blind tasting and comparing when I was drinking my pint of bottled Pedigree (pale ale 5%).  So I  poured for myself another pint of bottled London Pride (best bitter 4.7%).  Thanks to the assistance of my best mate, I just closed my eyes and drank from one of the glass handed to me in the first place, followed by the other one later.  Obviously I recognized the taste of London Pride immediately, but the point of the tasting is on grasping more accurately what those beer really taste like.  I draw the comparison as follows:

                                                          colour        body           refreshness        sweetness        maltiness
                                                                      (full or watery)   (pilsner as         (just like fruity  (degree of
                                                                                           benchmark 100)      vs dry wine)    substance)                                                    

Pedigree (classic pale ale):           pale amber    medium             80                medium dry        malty

London Pride (typical best bitter):  golden     medium to full       50                     fruity             malty

I have to disclaim in the first place: the above assessment is totally subjective and not scientific, but it gives my own answer to my question as mentioned in the headline.

And this comparison is also consistent with my preference on wine styles: I prefer "fruity" Italian wine to "dry" French wine.


I have not imagined more thorough and in-depth study on beer styles and their corresponding brewing science will give me such joy in beer drinking.  From Protz's book, he tells you the major differences between Pale Ale and Bitter are: 
(1) Pale Ale bears a longer history of brewing (i.e. it predates bitter);
(2) Crystal malt is an essential component of bitter.  It is stewed malt made by a process similar to making toffee that turns the starch inside each kernel of malt into crystallised sugar.

But that explanation don't give you any concrete substance, right?  You have to acquire the difference by yourself.  Cheers!

About the beer

Marston's Pedigree

Source: Marston's Brewery, Burton-on-Trent
Strength: 5%ABV
Style: Pale Ale

Rating (out of 10): 9

(from the brewery's website)
Pedigree is available in draught, bottle and can versions. All of Marston's Pedigree™ is brewed at our brewery at Burton upon Trent, using our spring water, the finest ingredients and our unique Union system.


Last but not least, I am beginning to appreciate the style of pale ale and like this classic Pedigree more and more!

Stella Artois

About the beer

Source: Inbev, Leuven, Belgium
Style: Lager
Strength: 5.0% ABV
Colour: Golden

Tasting at The United (apart from the numerous times in numerous
                       bars at numerous occasions)
Rating (out of 10): 7.5

Notes:

I did have to check through my past items to see whether I have already included Stella Artois in my beer drinking journal.  It's surprising when nothing could be found actually.

The beer is popular here in the city, and there is nothing wrong with being popular.  It has an appeal of being "higher-class", and there is also nothing wrong with that, together with all its advertising efforts including advertisment (always seeing a handsome, well-dressed, male European, allured by this golden and perfectly poured glass of Stella Artois), logo (anno 1366), branded glass (stemed), slogan (She is a thing of beauty).  Everything fit together to create an image of prestige and "European" (so the word "Imported" is emphasised, spelt out and printed near the bottle-neck, although most of the bottled-beer brands we drink nowadays are imported).  It gives you a good feeling in drinking it.

On actual drinking experiences, it varies a lot.  It could be rather pale and taste-less, if the pub treated the draft beer too coldly (which is quite normal in HK).  It could contain too much gas (I don't know why) some times, and not very friendly with your stomach.  It could be quite "ordinary" in quite many times that you do not recognise which beer you are drinking if you do not look at the glass.

Anyway, I had quite a walk in the morning, and this glass of Stells Artois gave me some refreshing feeling (and together with a glass of sparkling water, answered my thirsty quest), and it worths 7.5 points.

Black Cab Stout

About the Beer

Source: Griffin Brewery, Chiswick, England (Fuller, Smith and Turner PLC)
Style: Stout
Strength: 4.5%ABV
Colour: Black (as a London Black Cab)

Tasting: at The United
Rating (out of 10): 9

Notes:

I don't know what other experts would say, my utmost (or maybe only) criteria in assessing a beer is whether it is delicious.  I cannot find any other reason to enjoy a beer, (it is much easier to getting drunk if you drink whisky, vodka or gin; and "show" your "taste" by having a glass of wine).  And my first-time drinking of this Fuller's Black Cab Stout fits very much what I demand of beer drinking - it is very delicious, from the first mouthful to the very last.

The beer books told a lot about the "invention" of this style of beer in London and was so loved by the working class people (i.e. the porters), from there the name came.  And the stronger version of porter was called stout.  Nowadays, when you speak of Stout, it almost automatically means Guinness.

It is true that Guinness is good, when you drink it on tap at a bar (but not bottled or canned).  Much better than other brews, such as Murphy.  But I think this Black Cab Stout is more delicious than Guinness, in ways of its deliciousness, easy-going character, and dry finish.

Black Cab Stout is so delicious that it gives you a taste of sweetness in your first mouthful of it.  More accurately, it should be called bitter-sweetness, but actually more sweet than bitter.  This may be described as "biscuit-like" or "malty" in those book, but anyway I prefer sweetness.  Furthermore after the first taste of sweetness, it gives you dryness in its aftertaste.  Such a perfect combination.

A really satisfying experience.

This is what introduced in the Fuller's website:

Black Cab Stout

Brewed with a combination of five different malts, some heavily roasted for a near jet black appearance, Black Cab Stout is 4.2% ABV and beneath its dark exterior features luxurious red berry notes, toasty aromas on the nose and culminates in a dry, bitter finish.

Broadside

About the beer

Source: Adnams Brewery, Southwold, Suffolk
Style: Strong Bitter
Colour: Dark ruby red
Strength: 6.3% ABV
Ingredient: Pale Ale malt, First Gold hops

Story: Brewed to commemorate the fierce Battle of Sole Bay fought against the Dutch Republic in 1672 off the Southwold coast

Awards: Broadside is a multi-award winner, including ‘Best Strong Bitter’ in the country, and awarded a gold medal at the Great British Beer Festival. Voted ‘Best Strong Bitter’ in the country, it was duly awarded a bronze medal at GBBF in 2011 and Gold award in the International Beer Challenge in 2009.


Tasting at The United
           500ml bottle

Rating (out of 10): 7

Notes: I treasure strong beer, generally, but not this one, unfortunately.  The dark ruby red colour seems a bit misleading to me, as it reminds me of impression of "refined" and "elegant" tastes of Belgium trappist beers.  Disappointingly, taste of Broadside is quite pale (I mean not complex enough), and not hoppy enough.

However, it seems that Southwold is a nice town as seen from the internet photos.  Should be a nice place to visit.

By the way, it is also interesting to see so many breweries naming their beers as those "numerous" British military victories (Admiral's Ale, Spitfire, etc).

Scarecrow & Oxford Gold - Golden Ales

Scarescrow

About the beer

Source: Wychwood Brewery, Witney, Oxfordshire, UK
Style: Organic pale ale
Strength: 4.7%ABV
Malt: Plumage Archer
Hop: Target

Tasting at Lamma
500ml bottle

Rating: 7.5 (out of 10)

Oxford Gold

About the beer

Source: Brakspear Brewery, Witney, Oxfordshire, UK
Style: Organic golden ale
Strength: 4.6%ABV
Malt: English Pale, Crystal
Hop: Fuggles, Goldings, Styrian


Tasting at Lamma
500ml bottle

Rating: 8 (out of 10)

Notes:

Spring is already here and summer is just outside the door, so I tried something more appealing to the eye - the golden colour of beer.

When you think about drinking beer, it makes more sense to emphasise its taste rather than its outlook.  But the advertising and branding people try everything to grasp consumers' attention and hence the aspect of colour comes to the forefront.  Roger Protz said, in his book "300 beers to try before you die", that golden ales were created (mainly) to counter the growth of mass-advertised global lager brands.  I don't know whether the advertising strategy or not, the creation offer some more choices for beer drinkers anyhow.

Scarecrow and Oxford Gold both have a very pleasant appeal to your palate, meaning a bit sweet, very refreshing, and smooth at the same time.  It does somehow strike a good balance between refreshing crispy taste (like lager) and offering a feeling of "bodiness" as expected by ale-drinkers.  In comparison, Oxford Gold is more aromatic, while Scarecrow offers a more citric fruity taste.

It was exciting that I found these two ales in an organic food shop on Lamma Island.  The only pity was that I had my dinner already.  I guess these two ales should go very well with seafood.

Chinese watery beers and others

Just visited Ningbo (寧波) and Zhoushan for a short trip.  As always you cannot expect much to see, eat or drink in the PRC nowadays, as it is an absurd country.  I tried to look for and drink some beers along my way.  It is only for the record purpose:

Watery beers

If possible, I tried to find out some local beers to try, and what I found in Ningbo is a beer called 大梁山.  It was interesting to see the label 大梁山 7度 and guessed it was of 7%ABV.  But we should not be that naive when we came across those products from this neighbouring country.  It said that "原麥汁濃度" is 7 while the alcohol content is actually around 2.5%ABV.  Simply speaking, it tasted like water.

I tried another bottle and I ordered 雪花純生.  Interestingly, it was also of 2.5%ABV, and it also tasted like water.

Good choices in supermarket: Chimay Red and St Feuillien

I gave up drinking beer in restaurant the next day and changed my tactics to visiting a supermarket.  Luckily there was quite a large selection and we picked up Chimay Red and St Feuillien.

We drank them fastly and there should not be much adjective on what they tasted like.  It was simply that: beers should taste like this, and it should be doubtful whether those watery stuff be called the same name.

Munich Brewery

When wandering in a very "high-class" mall (in which you cannot come across more than five people in any direction you looked at), I found this Munich Brewery and walked in.

It was advertised that the beer sold are brewed at its own micro-brewery, and the waiter emphasised that the micro-brewery is simply located on-site inside the bar and restaurant (as taught by my own intuition and experiences, I was very doubtful that those tanks inside the air-conditioned restaurant really supply all the beer sold in the premises).

Anyway, I tried the wheat (yellow) beer and pilsner. Yes, they tasted fresh and nice. I should find myself excited when I walked into a micro-brewery (!!).

Wheat beer

Pilsner

But unluckily, the micro-brewery was situated in a strange country of PRC. 

Anyway, it was my holiday trip after all, and should be remembered nicely.